I, too, have the GE -JKP86. Microwave over oven. My oven would not heat up on bake or broil. Elements checked good, no fault codes. This is how I fixed mine: Shut off power at the box. Remove unit from cabinet. I placed mine on a chair. Remove cover(s) until you expose the circuit boards behind the control consol . The top board is behind the microwave controls, the bottom is behind the oven controls. Remove the bottom board by removing 4 screws. I take pictures with my smart phone, even some video. Helps me remember how everything goes back together. BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF, HIGH VOLTAGE IN HERE! One of the screws is hard to see. It is behind the ribbon connector. Unplug everything carefully. You will see a red and an orange wire north and south of a small relay. You must unclip the circuit boards from each other. Look for a missing drop of solder on the back side of the board with the relay. You will find it underneath where the red wire connects. Mine ( looking through a magnifying glass) looked like a crater with a wire sticking up out of it. It had overheated and the solder dripped out. The joint is inadequate. I cleaned and resoldered it with a nice blob. Reassemble and check. I just left mine on the chair. Power on. Select bake, 300, start. You should here the relays click and after about 45 seconds you'll see the bottom element glow. After one minute the relay clicks again ant you'll see the top element glow. They alternate during the preheat cycle. Put it all back together and shove it all back in the hole. Hope this helped!
I, too, have the GE -JKP86. Microwave over oven. My oven would not heat up on bake or broil. Elements checked good, no fault codes. This is how I fixed mine: Shut off power at the box. Remove unit from cabinet. I placed mine on a chair. Remove cover(s) until you expose the circuit boards behind the control consol . The top board is behind the microwave controls, the bottom is behind the oven controls. Remove the bottom board by removing 4 screws. I take pictures with my smart phone, even some video. Helps me remember how everything goes back together. BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF, HIGH VOLTAGE IN HERE! One of the screws is hard to see. It is behind the ribbon connector. Unplug everything carefully. You will see a red and an orange wire north and south of a small relay. You must unclip the circuit boards from each other. Look for a missing drop of solder on the back side of the board with the relay. You will find it underneath where the red wire connects. Mine ( looking through a magnifying glass) looked like a crater with a wire sticking up out of it. It had overheated and the solder dripped out. The joint is inadequate. I cleaned and resoldered it with a nice blob. Reassemble and check. I just left mine on the chair. Power on. Select bake, 300, start. You should here the relays click and after about 45 seconds you'll see the bottom element glow. After one minute the relay clicks again ant you'll see the top element glow. They alternate during the preheat cycle. Put it all back together and shove it all back in the hole. Hope this helped!
I, too, have the GE -JKP86. Microwave over oven. My oven would not heat up on bake or broil. Elements checked good, no fault codes. This is how I fixed mine: Shut off power at the box. Remove unit from cabinet. I placed mine on a chair. Remove cover(s) until you expose the circuit boards behind the control consol . The top board is behind the microwave controls, the bottom is behind the oven controls. Remove the bottom board by removing 4 screws. I take pictures with my smart phone, even some video. Helps me remember how everything goes back together. BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF, HIGH VOLTAGE IN HERE! One of the screws is hard to see. It is behind the ribbon connector. Unplug everything carefully. You will see a red and an orange wire north and south of a small relay. You must unclip the circuit boards from each other. Look for a missing drop of solder on the back side of the board with the relay. You will find it underneath where the red wire connects. Mine ( looking through a magnifying glass) looked like a crater with a wire sticking up out of it. It had overheated and the solder dripped out. The joint is inadequate. I cleaned and resoldered it with a nice blob. Reassemble and check. I just left mine on the chair. Power on. Select bake, 300, start. You should here the relays click and after about 45 seconds you'll see the bottom element glow. After one minute the relay clicks again ant you'll see the top element glow. They alternate during the preheat cycle. Put it all back together and shove it all back in the hole. Hope this helped!
Spot on! This is what was wrong with mine. Thank-you for this post.
Second this! I heard the clicking but no bake or broil, with my unit I was able to access the control boards with 2 screws inside the microwave door, , found the missing solder contact, 5 min later, back in service!
Thanks!
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Wow! Thank you for the spot on fix! Note: the whole unit doesn't have to be removed. Only the "keypad" needs to be removed (two screws). The offender is under the the pink wire (TB2). Only four screws and some plastic spacers to remove.
SOURCE: GE JKP27WP1 Oven Won't Work
Hi Cyrep, You can fix a suggested fix at the following link: www.fixya.com/howto/h155060-dreaded_f7_error Even though you are not getting an error message, they are sometime stored in memory and have to be repeated a number of times before they show up in the display. I have shared this fix with over 1300 folks and most report success. I hope that it works for you too. Please let me know at hutchipop@yahoo.com. Regards, Charlie
SOURCE: GE Evolution stove/oven. My oven is not working,
remove heating element an check with ohm meter. pretty simple really.
SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,
SOURCE: GE JTP56 double oven controls OK top OK bottom no heat
have you inserted the business card as described in the solutions?
SOURCE: gas oven won't light on bake setting
If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less
than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. Faulty gas valve is uncommon, but still a
small possibility. Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.
PS For your model number the original part number was WB13K4 or WB13K0004, which is a round ignitor, though on the breakdown a rectangular one is shown, so check carefully.
Good luck!
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I can't thank you enough. Both heating coils stopped working this morning with no other symptoms. Found your remedy online and soldered the burned area on the circuit board you pinpointed. Your a hero to publish this info.
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